HEALTHY SKIN AT ANY AGE, PART ONE – YOUR TEENAGE YEARS

For those who believe they have naturally “healthy” skin, it still requires a bit of work. What’s also true is that “unhealthy” skin may not require a lot more work than healthy skin.

Your skin cells are on a regular reproduction cycle that happens every 28-32 days.  During the teens and twenties, your skin cells are reproducing at their optimum rate. Teenagers, in particular, are vulnerable to skin problems because they are also experiencing many hormonal changes in their bodies during these years.  For this age group, if you can develop good habits at an early age, you may be able to avoid serious issues with acne and other troubling skin conditions.

For my own teens as well as others, I suggest the following basic skin care rules to follow:

1. TRY TO STAY CONSISTENT!  One of the most important things to remember as a teenager is to stay consistent with your skin care routine.  Even if you are only able (or willing) to cleanse your face once a day (yes, to remove makeup, because you don’t want to sleep with your makeup on), stick to it.  It helps to have a very simple routine: Cleanser, toner or treatment product, sunscreen (AM daily); or cleanser, toner or treatment product, barrier repairing product (PM daily).  If someone is trying to talk you into any more than three steps, consider what is realistically easiest for you to do on a daily basis.  And stop switching products every couple of weeks if you think something isn’t working.  Sometimes it takes time for your skin to adjust to a new product or routine, so give it at least six to eight weeks.  Talk to your skin care professional if you are having troubles with products he or she has recommended for you so that adjustments can be made, if necessary.
2. DON’T PICK!  We may have all heard this from our parents, but I am repeating it here: Keep your hands off your face.  And for moms out there like my mom was with me: Keep your hands off your kid’s face.  Nothing spreads acne and other nasty bacteria more than touching your face with your germ-laden hands.  Picking will drive bacteria further into the follicle and could create more irritation and inflammation.  Picking may also lead to permanent scarring.  It can happen subconsciously, without even thinking about it – but try your best to stay aware of what you are doing. Try this next time you get the urge to pick or pop something on your face (or neck, chest or back): grab an ice-cube and a paper towel.  Press the ice-cube against the area that is bothering you, and the paper towel will absorb the water as it melts.  This will keep your hands busy, and reduce inflammation (swelling and redness) at the same time.
3. MORE IS NOT BETTER!  BE NICE TO YOUR SKIN!  Along the lines of a consistent routine, you need to keep it simple.  Slamming your face with a benzoyl-peroxide (BPO) cleanser, a BPO toner, and a BPO treatment product is a lot of BPO.  BPO can trigger inflammation and free radical action in the skin, which could actually cause more damage in the long run.  Instead, if you are using a BPO toner or treatment product, use a gentle foaming or gel cleanser and skin barrier-repairing product.  In addition, you don’t need to use a lot of muscle to properly cleanse your face.  Throw out harsh scrubbing products, which could cause micro-tears in your skin (leading to more inflammation and irritation, and spreading of bacteria).  Washcloths and cleansing scrubbers or sponges also harbor a lot of bacteria, especially when they are not changed on a regular basis.  It’s better to just use your hands to cleanse and rinse your face, and gently pat—don’t rub—your face dry.  If you feel you need regular exfoliation treatments, talk to a skin care professional.
4. STAY AWAY FROM TANNING BEDS! I cannot emphasize this point enough. In fact, I hope you never see the inside of a tanning bed.  Just one time in a tanning bed increases your chances of melanoma skin cancer (the deadliest form) by 50%.  UV rays age us more than any other environmental factor out there, with smoking coming in at a close second place. Get used to the idea that pale skin is the “new tan,” or the real look of healthy skin.  Have you seen any lifelong sun worshipers’ skin lately?  It looks leathery, wrinkled, spotty, and generally appears a lot older than it really is.  Wearing makeup with sunscreen isn’t enough protection because makeup application gives inconsistent coverage.  Include SPF 30 sunscreen with broad-spectrum ingredients (Zinc Oxide or Avobenzone if you are prone to break-outs) in your daily routine, applied just before your makeup in the morning. 
5. DON’T SMOKE! Unless you want to look old and ugly.  Smoking is not cool, no matter what age you are.  Not only is smoking bad for your overall health, it decreases oxygen levels in your skin and causes skin congestion.  Nicotine addiction is one of the hardest habits to break – don’t even get started.

Finally, know when to consult a professional when your skin is bothering you.  If you are suffering from acne as a teen, you need to see a licensed esthetician or a physician if your skin is very inflamed (red) with more than 25 open and closed comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), and papules, pustules or cysts (the ones you want to squeeze).

Caring for your skin should become an easy habit, like brushing your teeth twice a day.  The earlier you begin your skin care routine, the easier it will be for you to maintain your healthy skin.

Toners, Clarifiers, Astringents – Oh, my!

Do you really need to use a toner, clarifier or astringent?  Are any of these products really a required part of your personal skin regimen?  My answer is: well, it depends…

 

It depends on why you feel you need to use one of these products – do you feel you need an extra step to help with excess sebum production, or help clear blackheads, or help smooth your skin texture?  Or, do you feel you need a little extra boost of moisture, or something to help calm your itchy, sensitive skin?

 

Astringents were developed back in the days when most of us used bar soaps or Noxzema to cleanse our skin.  Bar soaps are so highly alkaline (our skin barrier is actually slightly acidic), astringents were formulated at a low pH to restore the skin’s acid mantle and help prepare the skin for the next treatment product or moisturizer.  Now, we have many pH-balanced cleansers to choose from, and if you are already using a pH-balanced cleanser, an astringent (now also known as a toner, clarifier, refiner or freshener) is really an optional step in your skin care regimen. 

 

Toners help remove excess cleanser or residue left after cleansing.  Well-formulated toners also contain humectant, anti-oxidant and anti-irritant ingredients, and help soothe sensitive skin.  Toners for oily/acne skin used in place of a moisturizer are also an easy step for teens who like to keep a simple skin care routine. The proper way to use a toner is to apply after cleansing, before serum or moisturizer.

 

Toners for drier/sensitive skin types will contain humectants, which attract moisture to the skin, and other soothing ingredients.  Look for ingredients such as butylene glycol, sorbitol, glycerin, bisabolol, azulene, chamomile, cucumber and date fruit extract.  Notable toners for drier or sensitive skin types include Epionce Rebalancing Clarifier, Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Toner, and SkinCeuticals Revitalizing Toner.

 

Toners for oilier skin types may have a temporary tightening effect on pore appearance, and contain ingredients that help control excess sebum production and kill surface microbes.  Look for ingredients such as witch hazel, grape seed extract, salicylic acid, willow bark extract, and citrus extracts such as lime, lemon or orange.  Notable toners for oilier or acne-prone skin types include Epionce Purifying Lytic Toner, Murad Clarifying Toner, and Paula’s Choice Healthy Skin Refreshing Toner.

 

Toners that contain ingredients such as glycolic or lactic acid also help to encourage cell turnover (when in a pH of less than 4), and are great for anti-aging and skin smoothing benefits.

 

To sum it all up, some people, including me, consider toner or clarifier an optional step; others want to have that little extra step to complete their skin regimen.  There are days, after I’ve shaved my legs or in the colder winter months, when I need a little extra boost of soothing moisture from Epionce Rebalancing Clarifier (it really helps itchy, dry skin).  And there are those “hormonal” days when I need a little spot treatment with Epionce Purifying Lytic Toner.  It really depends on you to decide what works best for you!

Detox Experience – Day One

My SO and I have been a little “over-indulgent” over the summer, so we have decided to try a detox program to “clean” our systems before the holiday season.  We hope this will help kick-start our plans for a healthier lifestyle too!

 

Five years ago in esthetician school, I was trained and certified for M’lis, a health and wellness company that specializes in detoxification treatments, along with body wraps and skin care.  Their programs offer drug-free options for those suffering with fibromyalgia, candida (yeast), hormonal imbalance and weight issues.  M’lis was one of the exhibitors at the Medical Aesthetics Conference & Expo in New York a few weeks ago, so I picked up a couple of detox packages for honey and me to try together.

 

I’ve never tried to detox before, so this is going to be an interesting experience.  My sister, who is a veteran of different cleansing programs over the years, told me to report back if anything weird comes out of me.

 

Detox Day One

It doesn’t help that my honey snored most of the night last night, and I did not sleep very well.  I have been worried about the fasting (I really like food, and I’ve been lucky that I haven’t had many weight worries over the years), but I’m trying to keep a positive attitude. 

 

Today, we have to cut meat, dairy, refined sugars and flour from our diets in preparation for our fast in two days.  What does that leave us to eat?  We made a special trip last weekend to the downtown co-op, signed up for membership, and came home with a car load of organic foods.

 

Breakfast: I’m not a big coffee drinker, but I do like a cup in the morning while I check my email.  I went coffee-free this morning, opting for a steamy cup of lemon ginger tea instead.  We had to take a handful of herbal pills this morning: Cleanse, Detox and Fiber (12 total).  I had oatmeal (the long-cooking kind, because it has better fiber) mixed with brown rice, rice milk, cinnamon and chopped walnuts.  It’s held me over pretty well this morning.  I brought barbeque soy nuts and a banana to tide me over through the day.  I am supposed to drink 2 qts of distilled water throughout the day today as well.

 

Lunch: Tomato soup and distilled water.  Yum.

 

Dinner: We have plans to go to Goodwood tonight – yikes!  That’s going to be hard, but I think I’ll do a salad with oil and vinegar.  It’s going to be hard to resist refined bread.  I love bread!  I only have to do this for four more days …

 

I feel a little dizzy and a little head-achy today … I don’t know if it’s from lack of sleep, lack of caffeine, or just my mind feeling funky about fasting.

“Over-the-Counter” Skincare vs. “Cosmeceuticals” or “Pharmaceuticals” – What is the difference?

As a professional esthetician, we often hear these common questions from our clients: What is the difference between a “professional” skin care cosmeceutical vs. a brand you can find “over-the-counter” at a drug or department store?  Is there really a difference, or is it all a bunch of fancy marketing talk and pretty pictures?  Can you get nice results with drugstore cosmetic brands, or will your results be better with professional cosmeceuticals? Too often, consumers fall under the spell of cosmetic company marketing and advertising claims, and will spend a lot of money on expensive over-the-counter cosmetics that really don’t work in the skin.

 

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) divides skin care products into two distinct categories: pharmaceutical and cosmetic.  Topical pharmaceuticals penetrate through the layers of the epidermis and affect the structure and function of the skin (think of prescription topical steroids or Retin-A).  Cosmetics are defined as ” … articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance …”  Pharmaceutical drugs may undergo more than 10 years of drug approval testing that may cost hundreds of millions of dollars — whereas, cosmetics do not have to prove their claims, but they can cite “scientific studies” of the ingredients used in their product formulations to validate the safety and efficacy of the ingredient formula.

 

Cosmeceuticals are the “happy medium” between a pharmaceutical and a cosmetic.  The word “cosmeceutical” really is not categorized by the FDA, but it is a word that is used in the professional skin care arena to describe a cosmetic that actually has biological action, but is regulated as a cosmetic — meaning, again, the formula does not technically have to prove efficacy or safety, but it does contain an ingredient that may have activity in the skin.

 

You will find many of the same catch phrases when you read an advertisement for skin care: “Dermatologist-Tested,” “Clinically Proven,” “Clinical Studies show that …,” “Clinically Tested.”  But interpret these phrases with caution, especially when trying to choose a skin care line that works best for your practice and clientele.  Since cosmetic companies really don’t have to prove efficacy claims, the special active ingredient touted in the formula only has to appear somewhere on the ingredient list — ingredients are listed in content order, from most to least, so if you see that “active” on the last half of the list (usually alphabetically) you can bet you are getting a tiny percentage (enough to be effective in the formulation?) of that specific ingredient. When you see these types of claims, start asking questions:

 

·     What was tested — an individual ingredient or the finished formulation?

·     How was it tested, in-vitro (in a test tube or petri dish, in an ideal environment), or was it tested in-vivo (on actual skin)?

·     Were the studies double-blinded (meaning, the person applying the product and the person evaluating the results each have no knowledge of what they are applying or evaluating; it is strictly objective)

·     Was the formula tested against placebo cream (like glycerin or petrolatum), or against nothing, or against another type of similar product?

·     How long was the test conducted?  On how many participants?

 

Because many consumers “self-diagnose” when choosing a skin care product to try from a drug or department store, these products must be made safely, meaning, big cosmetic companies cannot afford to have masses of consumers with issues from using very active products — so, that skin care product may feel good and smell good, but it likely won’t have a lot of activity in the formulation.

 

Over-the-counter cosmetics are also manufactured and distributed in very large batches, and are packed with almost as many preservatives as “active” ingredients!  In addition, many over-the-counter cosmetics simply do not penetrate the skin barrier, where the ingredient formula would have a therapeutic benefit to the health of the skin.   Remember too, it’s not just about one really fabulous ingredient — it’s the mixture of the right amounts of active ingredients working synergistically together that work best in the skin, similar to how oral multivitamins work internally in our bodies with a mixture of vitamins and minerals for best absorption.

 

It is important to note that many single ingredients that test very well in in-vitro testing actually have no function in human skin when mixed into a formulation — yet, we still believe the “clinical study” claims from in-vitro studies.  As well, many companies that cite clinical study results will not provide clinical study documentation.  Rare is the cosmeceutical company that tests their finished formulations and then offers full clinical study details for the public to see.  You will sometimes find peer-reviewed cosmetic formulation studies in dermatology or cosmetic surgery journals, which lends more credibility to the testing process.

 

Since licensed estheticians do not prescribe pharmaceutical products, offering a well formulated and tested cosmeceutical line is the next best option to pharmaceuticals.  Cosmeceuticals that are professionally recommended by a licensed esthetician, physician or other educated skin care professional generally have a higher amount of active ingredients with proven and safe formulations, and offer delivery systems that reach targeted cells in the skin.  In your search for safe and effective skincare for your clientele, try to find cosmeceutical companies that offer clinical testing information, and learn how to ask questions and interpret clinical study details.  As a licensed skin care professional, research is imperative to help make the best decision for your clients.

 

 

Special Skin Care Concerns – Treating Asian Skin

Our Japanese partners from Osaka were visiting our corporate office last week and I got to perform a facial on one of the women on the team, which was a very special privilege for me.  Here in Boise, I don’t get many chances to work on Asian skin very often.

 

Asian skin is very delicate skin, and Asian women are very concerned about keeping their skin as light as possible.  Products that help with hyperpigmentation are highly regarded and coveted especially in the Japanese-Asian skin care market – but those pigmentation treatment products must also be formulated for very sensitive skin as well. 

 

Years ago, renowned dermatologist Dr. Thomas Fitzpatrick created a way to classify skin type by the tendency to burn or tan when exposed to the sun.  This Fitzpatrick skin typing helped the skin care professional determine which types of treatments would be safe for certain skin colors, such as aggressive chemical peels or laser procedures.  The Fitzpatrick scale ranges from Type I, the fairest skin most susceptible to sunburn and sun damage, to Type VI, the darkest skin most resistant to sunburn and sun damage.  As well, darker skin types tend to be the most susceptible to pigmentation disorders, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (after a blemish or scab has cleared), or melasma.  Although Japanese skin is very fair, it must be treated as Fitzpatrick V, due to the tendency for sensitive Japanese skin to pigment easily.  Aggressive peels and laser protocols must be used cautiously as well.

 

Visible pigment is triggered by an inflammatory response in the skin, so it is important for Asian skin to use gentle products that help calm inflammation in the skin.  Remember that living life every day exposes your skin to factors that contribute to inflammation – from sun exposure and pollution to lifestyle and diet.  Skin care products that use a combination of anti-inflammatory ingredients along with antioxidants (to help protect against free radical damage) help to calm the inflammatory process, which in turn helps improve the appearance of visible pigmentation.

 

My lovely Asian “client” had beautiful skin to begin with, so I concentrated on giving her a gentle but thorough cleansing with Epionce® Milky Lotion Cleanser followed by Epionce® Gentle Foaming Cleanser, using my ultrasonic spatula for very light removal of dead surface cells.  I infused Epionce® Lite Lytic with ultrasound to further deep clean her pores, reduce any redness, and smooth her skin texture.  I followed with an application of Epionce® Enriched Firming Mask to add hydration and further soothe her skin.  While she masked and relaxed, I performed a hand treatment using Epionce® Rebalancing Clarifier and Epionce® Renewal Body Lotion, slipping her hands inside warm mitts.  We finished the facial with a light application of Epionce® Rebalancing Clarifier, Epionce® Renewal Eye Cream, Epionce® Renewal Facial Lotion and Epionce® Active Shield Lotion SPF30+.  She looked absolutely radiant when we were done!

 

The Japanese skin care market has the most stringent regulations in the world regarding ingredient formulations, and products imported from the US must undergo very extensive testing before they are brought into the Japanese market.  This process could take years before a US skin care manufacturer is allowed to retail its products in Japan. 

 

Epionce® products, formulated to nourish the skin with a blend of botanicals and antioxidants, and help calm inflammation in the skin, will be introduced to the Japanese market in the fall of 2008.

Other “beauty blog” sites

I found an interesting beauty blog website last week — it looked legitimate enough when I first started reading.  There were many different “consumer reviews,” including positive, negative and neutral posts on many different skin care lines — like Obagi, Skin Medica, Epionce, Dermalogica.  But it became quite apparent to me after reading several of the reviews that the website was in fact a sponsored website, obviously skewed in the direction of the sponsored product.

So what I would like to point out to the general public is this: when reading a weblog — do make sure that the “facts” and the “reviews” you are reading are true facts and true reviews, not fabricated “reviews” made up by some busy corporate marketing department.

I clicked on the links on this particular website, to try to find out more information about their touted ingredients, Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline.  I wrote to the company for more information on their “clinical results” and asked these questions:

• May I have information on your clinical studies?
• Were these double-blind, controlled clinical studies?
• What were the parameters tested (ie, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, skin clarity, etc)?
• What was tested, the individual ingredient or the finished formula?  What was it tested against (placebo, regular moisturizer, glycerin, etc)?
• How long were the tests conducted?  How many participants were tested?

So … I eagerly awaited my email response … and recieved a form email which was basically another advertisement for Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline … NO answers whatsoever to any of the specific questions I asked — and “we hope this answers all your questions regarding x-y-z product.  Please feel free to contact us with any other questions or concerns that you may have concerning this product.”  Yeah, WHATEVER — thanks for nothing!!

Here’s a fun fact: Of all the ingredients the FDA tests for cosmetics, only 1 out of 350 ingredients actually have activity in the skin when mixed in a formula — so BUYER BEWARE!  Remember, it’s more than does the product feel good and smell good — does the product actually work?