WHAT IS AN ESTHETICIAN?

A licensed esthetician is likely to partake in this conversation more than once during her career:

 

“What do you do?”

“I’m an esthetician.”

“Oh, you’re an anesthetist?  Isn’t that interesting …”

Well, sometimes I put people to sleep, our esthetician thinks to herself …

 

The word esthetics comes from the Greek word aesthētikos, which means to have an appreciation of beauty.  An esthetician (or aesthetician) is a person who is professionally interested in the health and beauty of the skin.  Since my teen years, I have been obsessed with skin and eyebrows (not just mine, but everyone else’s), but I never realized I could make a living with it until my mid-thirties.

 

Estheticians, also known as beauty therapists in various parts of the world, sometimes suffer from an identity crisis – estheticians are not cosmetologists, who are trained in hair, skin and nails; and they are not massage therapists, although esthetics training covers rudimentary massage techniques.

 

Licensed estheticians are trained skin professionals, who have a passion for learning elemental details about the inner workings of the skin.  Estheticians study anatomy and physiology, skin analysis, cosmetic chemistry, cosmetic ingredient formulations, various treatment modalities including laser and light therapies, how to prepare and care for skin undergoing deep resurfacing or other surgical procedures; as well as hair removal, massage techniques and make-up artistry skills.

 

A caring, compassionate individual who enjoys working closely with people, a licensed esthetician is not afraid to touch, or to examine skin flaws with her trained eye and to recommend professional products that she has thoroughly researched and believes will be best-suited for your skin care goals. Like a carpenter who admires his handiwork after the house is built, an esthetician will rejoice in your smooth, clear skin after a microdermabrasion or chemical peel series with home care she has recommended for you.

 

Here in the United States, esthetic school is a trade school.  There are no national required standards in esthetic education, however, most states require at least 600 hours (approximately 4 months) of schooling before an esthetic student is allowed to take her practical and written exam for licensure.  And although not a requirement for license renewal in most states, many estheticians choose to take continuing education classes throughout the year to stay current on the most up-to-date skin care products, equipment and treatments.

 

Possibilities for rewarding career options include working in a skin care salon, day or medical spa; running a solo esthetic practice; representing a skin care line; make up artist; salon or spa director or consultant; educator or school director; assistant to a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon; on-site esthetician specializing in pre- and post-operative skin care; corrective skin care specialist or make-up artist for patients with burns or disfigurement; corporate esthetician advising research and manufacturing; beauty editor or writer; freelance writer and lecturer.

 

A typical day for an esthetician in a clinical environment will include skin care consultations and analysis, assessing each client’s personal skin care goals and recommending a plan of action to reach those goals.  If the plan includes surgery or laser resurfacing, the esthetician will outline proper pre- and post-treatment care to help the client attain optimal skin health prior to surgery and to prepare the skin for post-procedure healing.  This may include a series of microdermabrasion, chemical peel treatments or deep cleansing facials prior to surgery, followed by skin soothing facials after surgery.  She will also document the client’s progress with before and after pictures, and record treatment notes in each client’s chart. 

 

Oftentimes, in a physician’s office that has an attached medical spa, an esthetician is the manager of the product retail center, and will choose and sell product lines that best suit patient/client needs.  In addition, the esthetician will provide make-up consultation services for post-procedure camouflage, if necessary.  In a medical spa environment, under a physician or nurse practitioner supervision, a licensed esthetician may provide laser therapies such as laser hair removal, vascular-spider vein or intense pulsed light treatments (for wrinkles and pigment), and even endermologie treatments (machine massage for cellulite).

 

In a dermatology office, an esthetician may be utilized as more of a medical assistant, and the focus may be more clinical than in the cosmetic surgery or medical spa facility.  Esthetician job responsibilities within this environment will include simple facial cleansings while the physician administers advanced peels, assisting during surgeries, ordering supplies and performing extractions.

 

Many entrepreneurial estheticians choose to operate their own independent practice, which works well for the business-minded individual.  In order to succeed, the independent esthetician must have a solid business plan that includes marketing and promoting her business in addition to deciding product lines to carry and treatments to offer.  Some solo estheticians will specialize in specific avenues of esthetics, such as waxing or makeup services or clinical facial treatments.

 

Calling an esthetician a “beautician” or a “facialist” is as outdated as calling a flight attendant a “stewardess” or an “air hostess.”  Esthetics has come a long way since the days of Helena Rubenstein beauty spas in the early 1900’s.  It is a growing field, one that will continue to remain strong as long as people feel the need to remove unwanted hair and fight the visible signs of aging.

The “Promise” of Beauty

I think I finally found the perfect lipstick shade.  Really.  I have been searching forever.  But I think this one is really it.  In my mind, the perfect shade looked slightly deeper than my naked lip shade, a kind of deeper rosy hue, not too pink, not too plummy, not too mauve.  But this shade, called “Luscious” from the new Jane Iredale Lip Crayons – is perfection.

 

I think about this every time I look at cosmetic products … each product whispers a little promise: “if you use this little goodie, you will be beautiful.”  I read recently that women who go out to purchase a new lipstick will very likely come home with the exact same shade that they’ve purchased twenty times before.  I know I have at least 10 of the same shade of lipstick (different brands) at home – but it’s that “promise” I keep hearing that makes me want to purchase again … maybe this time, it will be the perfect shade and my search will be over, says my brain.

 

It started with the emails from Jane Iredale (well, not Jane personally, but the advertising emails).  I was mesmerized by these five beautiful pieces, this tiny collection of colors that work for any season.  I swear, those emails spoke to me somehow.  And then, I was visiting Marod Medical Spa in Twin Falls a few days ago, and not only was I seduced by the fabulous retail section, but there it was – the new Lip Crayons set.  Not only are the colors wonderful, they go on creamy and smooth, like a lipstick, not like a liner (and there’s a sharpener on the actual box, like a box of crayons) … I could hear, yet again, that “promise” of beauty calling out to me …

 

I was definitely a girly-girl when I was growing up, but I never learned much about makeup.  My mom was more of a tomboy, she was athletic and into sports; she was naturally beautiful and didn’t wear much makeup other than a little mascara and a quick swipe of lipstick.  Even growing up with two sisters and many close girlfriends didn’t spark a lot of interest, other than what foundation shade worked best to cover my teen acne.

 

So, although I wore some makeup as a teen, I was never a “lipstick girl.”  Maybe I had been traumatized by the neon orange-red shade we wore when performing with the marching band (which stained our lips for a week afterward).  But lipstick was always the last thing that went on my face.  It wasn’t until my early thirties with a best friend who never left the house without her lipstick that I actually got into wearing it.  And after trying out various shades of sienna, plum, cocoa, mauve and berry over the years, I became obsessed with finding that perfect shade.

 

As an esthetician, I learned makeup theory and some hands-on practice in esthetic school, but my overall experience has concentrated more on clinical treatments.  I use very basic makeup techniques on my clients (enough to quickly cover the skin before the ride home).  Considering all the cosmetics choices I have, most work days I get by with the basics — a little mineral foundation over my sunscreen, a pat of blush, a smidge of liner and mascara, and of course, a little lipstick or gloss.  On the weekends, I hardly wear anything on my face besides sun protection. The most fun I get to have with makeup is trying out new looks on my daughter or her friends for proms and other formal occasions (they actually trust me, bless them – but it’s not the makeup that makes the girls look amazing).  I truly admire those estheticians who specialize in makeup application, who have impressive portfolios of beautiful before and after pictures of their best work, who can deal with brides, mothers-of-the-brides, and other nervous nellies.

 

Does finding “Luscious” in that Lip Crayon kit mean that my search for the perfect shade will finally be over?  Probably not.

 

I am a cosmetic junkie.  I can’t help it.  I’m an esthetician; it’s part of what I do.  I’ve got a fancy makeup case filled with all sorts of different types of makeup: foundations, eye shadows, concealers, false eyelashes, blushes, lipsticks, liners and glosses.  And each one of those little sweeties in my case has called out that promise to me at some point, “Use me!  Use me, and you will be beautiful!”

 

What is the Skin Barrier?

Today, I’m going to talk about the skin barrier.  I’m going to define what it is, and why it plays an important role in the health of our skin.

First of all, when you think of your organs, you probably think: heart, lungs, liver, kidneys … generally you don’t think of your skin as an organ – but your skin is an organ — in fact, it is your body’s largest organ.  Your skin is a reflection of the health of your body – if your body is not healthy on the inside, it is reflected in the appearance of your skin on the outside.  As well, the healthier your skin is on the outside, the better job it can do to protect your insides. 

 

The Layers of the Skin

 

Your skin actually is made up of three distinct layers: subcutaneous (or Hypodermis, as shown above), dermis, and epidermis.  The subcutaneous or subcutis layer is the lowest layer.  The subcutaneous layer (sub means under and cutis means skin) is the fatty layer that provides protection and cushioning between the skin and muscle layers.  The dermis makes up a large portion of the skin, and is the layer between the subcutaneous and the epidermis.  The dermis is where collagen and elastin are formed.   

 

The epidermis is the outer layers of the skin, and is actually divided into several different sections, including the basal layer, which lays right on top of the dermis and is where new cells are formed.  These cells that are formed in the basal layer continue to multiply and migrate upward toward the surface of the skin. 

 

The very outermost layer of the epidermis, the skin surface, is called stratum corneum, or the skin barrier.  The stratum corneum, or skin barrier, is actually made up of 7-10 layers of dead skin cells – cells that began in the basal layer and migrated to the surface of the epidermis.  It’s a process that normally takes about 26-32 days in normal, healthy, young skin.  Those dead skin cells are stacked on top of each other and held together at the skin surface with a substance called intercellular lipids.  You may think of scales on a fish, for example, or another common comparison is bricks and mortar, which are the cells and lipids held together.

 

Even though these skin cells in the skin barrier are technically not living cells, they do play an important role in protecting your skin from outer bacteria and viruses.  As well, your skin barrier also holds water inside your body to protect your body from losing water (also known as trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL).  Our adult bodies are actually about 60-70% water, so if you didn’t have these outer layers of skin barrier keeping water inside your body, you would literally dry up in a few hours, like a piece of dehydrated fruit!

 

Why is it important to keep your skin barrier healthy?

 

As we age, our skin barrier breaks down and our epidermis thins after constant exposure to environmental factors.  It’s not just a matter of looking good on the outside; a healthy, intact skin barrier protects you from environmental factors that contribute to visible skin aging and skin diseases.  A thinner epidermis due to exposure influences the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermis, which causes us to sag and wrinkle.  Things like sun exposure, pollution, topical prescriptions, stress and even strong ingredients such as alpha-hydroxy acids or retinols can affect the health of your skin barrier. 

 

When you make a skin care product decision, remember to choose products that are proven to safely help repair and fortify your skin barrier, to keep your largest organ, your skin, at its healthiest.  A healthy skin barrier is your protective shield against the harsh elements of the outside world.

 

* Image used from image.google.com accessed on 11/04/2008. 

Detox – Day Four

Well, we made it through the first day sipping only lemon juice/distilled water/pure maple syrup.

During the day yesterday and today, my headache still raged in my head (actually, when honey asked me to rate it on a 1-10 scale, it’s only about a 3-ish, which isn’t that bad).  My joints started feeling sore, and it was difficult to stay seated in my chair at my desk yesterday.  My back ached, my legs and hips ached.  My eyes were having a hard time focusing on the computer screen as well — is that all in my head? 

When we got home, we fretted that we didn’t have dinner to cook … maybe we should get out of the house?  Everything is associated with food … coming home in the evening, I like a nice glass of wine to unwind or to have with dinner.  I like cooking a nice meal after a long day at work.  I suggested yoga, but both of us were a little too achy and tired.  What about a dollar movie, honey suggested.  How are we going to go and not eat popcorn and soda (and my favorite, Hot Tamales), I asked.  We decided to stay in and watch a movie instead, Across the Universe (which is wonderful).  We curled up under a blanket together and took turns running to the bathroom to pee.

I had some really bizarre dreams last night, and a fit-full night’s sleep.

Today, we had an important visitor at work, so there was a nice breakfast spread in the employee lunch room — muffins, quiche, fresh fruit, coffee.  Everyone looked at me drinking my lemon mixture …

The lemon mixture is definitely keeping the hunger at bay, but I can’t shake the light headed feeling, or the flu-ish soreness I’m feeling.  My son will be home tonight, so I may just order him a pizza for dinner … is it too early to give up the fast tonight?  Should I break it with Pizza Pipeline?  We have a whole other day to get through tomorrow … then possibly dinner at our football party.

We’ve also got an important strategy meeting this afternoon at work — terrible timing!  I can’t really focus very well (again … all in my head?) and I just want to go home and lay on the couch.  Even writing is a little difficult.  I must really be a wimp.

We were invited out for poker tonight … but the timing wasn’t right with this fast.  I’m in no mood for hours of poker.

Detox Experience – Day One

My SO and I have been a little “over-indulgent” over the summer, so we have decided to try a detox program to “clean” our systems before the holiday season.  We hope this will help kick-start our plans for a healthier lifestyle too!

 

Five years ago in esthetician school, I was trained and certified for M’lis, a health and wellness company that specializes in detoxification treatments, along with body wraps and skin care.  Their programs offer drug-free options for those suffering with fibromyalgia, candida (yeast), hormonal imbalance and weight issues.  M’lis was one of the exhibitors at the Medical Aesthetics Conference & Expo in New York a few weeks ago, so I picked up a couple of detox packages for honey and me to try together.

 

I’ve never tried to detox before, so this is going to be an interesting experience.  My sister, who is a veteran of different cleansing programs over the years, told me to report back if anything weird comes out of me.

 

Detox Day One

It doesn’t help that my honey snored most of the night last night, and I did not sleep very well.  I have been worried about the fasting (I really like food, and I’ve been lucky that I haven’t had many weight worries over the years), but I’m trying to keep a positive attitude. 

 

Today, we have to cut meat, dairy, refined sugars and flour from our diets in preparation for our fast in two days.  What does that leave us to eat?  We made a special trip last weekend to the downtown co-op, signed up for membership, and came home with a car load of organic foods.

 

Breakfast: I’m not a big coffee drinker, but I do like a cup in the morning while I check my email.  I went coffee-free this morning, opting for a steamy cup of lemon ginger tea instead.  We had to take a handful of herbal pills this morning: Cleanse, Detox and Fiber (12 total).  I had oatmeal (the long-cooking kind, because it has better fiber) mixed with brown rice, rice milk, cinnamon and chopped walnuts.  It’s held me over pretty well this morning.  I brought barbeque soy nuts and a banana to tide me over through the day.  I am supposed to drink 2 qts of distilled water throughout the day today as well.

 

Lunch: Tomato soup and distilled water.  Yum.

 

Dinner: We have plans to go to Goodwood tonight – yikes!  That’s going to be hard, but I think I’ll do a salad with oil and vinegar.  It’s going to be hard to resist refined bread.  I love bread!  I only have to do this for four more days …

 

I feel a little dizzy and a little head-achy today … I don’t know if it’s from lack of sleep, lack of caffeine, or just my mind feeling funky about fasting.

“Over-the-Counter” Skincare vs. “Cosmeceuticals” or “Pharmaceuticals” – What is the difference?

As a professional esthetician, we often hear these common questions from our clients: What is the difference between a “professional” skin care cosmeceutical vs. a brand you can find “over-the-counter” at a drug or department store?  Is there really a difference, or is it all a bunch of fancy marketing talk and pretty pictures?  Can you get nice results with drugstore cosmetic brands, or will your results be better with professional cosmeceuticals? Too often, consumers fall under the spell of cosmetic company marketing and advertising claims, and will spend a lot of money on expensive over-the-counter cosmetics that really don’t work in the skin.

 

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) divides skin care products into two distinct categories: pharmaceutical and cosmetic.  Topical pharmaceuticals penetrate through the layers of the epidermis and affect the structure and function of the skin (think of prescription topical steroids or Retin-A).  Cosmetics are defined as ” … articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance …”  Pharmaceutical drugs may undergo more than 10 years of drug approval testing that may cost hundreds of millions of dollars — whereas, cosmetics do not have to prove their claims, but they can cite “scientific studies” of the ingredients used in their product formulations to validate the safety and efficacy of the ingredient formula.

 

Cosmeceuticals are the “happy medium” between a pharmaceutical and a cosmetic.  The word “cosmeceutical” really is not categorized by the FDA, but it is a word that is used in the professional skin care arena to describe a cosmetic that actually has biological action, but is regulated as a cosmetic — meaning, again, the formula does not technically have to prove efficacy or safety, but it does contain an ingredient that may have activity in the skin.

 

You will find many of the same catch phrases when you read an advertisement for skin care: “Dermatologist-Tested,” “Clinically Proven,” “Clinical Studies show that …,” “Clinically Tested.”  But interpret these phrases with caution, especially when trying to choose a skin care line that works best for your practice and clientele.  Since cosmetic companies really don’t have to prove efficacy claims, the special active ingredient touted in the formula only has to appear somewhere on the ingredient list — ingredients are listed in content order, from most to least, so if you see that “active” on the last half of the list (usually alphabetically) you can bet you are getting a tiny percentage (enough to be effective in the formulation?) of that specific ingredient. When you see these types of claims, start asking questions:

 

·     What was tested — an individual ingredient or the finished formulation?

·     How was it tested, in-vitro (in a test tube or petri dish, in an ideal environment), or was it tested in-vivo (on actual skin)?

·     Were the studies double-blinded (meaning, the person applying the product and the person evaluating the results each have no knowledge of what they are applying or evaluating; it is strictly objective)

·     Was the formula tested against placebo cream (like glycerin or petrolatum), or against nothing, or against another type of similar product?

·     How long was the test conducted?  On how many participants?

 

Because many consumers “self-diagnose” when choosing a skin care product to try from a drug or department store, these products must be made safely, meaning, big cosmetic companies cannot afford to have masses of consumers with issues from using very active products — so, that skin care product may feel good and smell good, but it likely won’t have a lot of activity in the formulation.

 

Over-the-counter cosmetics are also manufactured and distributed in very large batches, and are packed with almost as many preservatives as “active” ingredients!  In addition, many over-the-counter cosmetics simply do not penetrate the skin barrier, where the ingredient formula would have a therapeutic benefit to the health of the skin.   Remember too, it’s not just about one really fabulous ingredient — it’s the mixture of the right amounts of active ingredients working synergistically together that work best in the skin, similar to how oral multivitamins work internally in our bodies with a mixture of vitamins and minerals for best absorption.

 

It is important to note that many single ingredients that test very well in in-vitro testing actually have no function in human skin when mixed into a formulation — yet, we still believe the “clinical study” claims from in-vitro studies.  As well, many companies that cite clinical study results will not provide clinical study documentation.  Rare is the cosmeceutical company that tests their finished formulations and then offers full clinical study details for the public to see.  You will sometimes find peer-reviewed cosmetic formulation studies in dermatology or cosmetic surgery journals, which lends more credibility to the testing process.

 

Since licensed estheticians do not prescribe pharmaceutical products, offering a well formulated and tested cosmeceutical line is the next best option to pharmaceuticals.  Cosmeceuticals that are professionally recommended by a licensed esthetician, physician or other educated skin care professional generally have a higher amount of active ingredients with proven and safe formulations, and offer delivery systems that reach targeted cells in the skin.  In your search for safe and effective skincare for your clientele, try to find cosmeceutical companies that offer clinical testing information, and learn how to ask questions and interpret clinical study details.  As a licensed skin care professional, research is imperative to help make the best decision for your clients.

 

 

Special Skin Care Concerns – Treating Asian Skin

Our Japanese partners from Osaka were visiting our corporate office last week and I got to perform a facial on one of the women on the team, which was a very special privilege for me.  Here in Boise, I don’t get many chances to work on Asian skin very often.

 

Asian skin is very delicate skin, and Asian women are very concerned about keeping their skin as light as possible.  Products that help with hyperpigmentation are highly regarded and coveted especially in the Japanese-Asian skin care market – but those pigmentation treatment products must also be formulated for very sensitive skin as well. 

 

Years ago, renowned dermatologist Dr. Thomas Fitzpatrick created a way to classify skin type by the tendency to burn or tan when exposed to the sun.  This Fitzpatrick skin typing helped the skin care professional determine which types of treatments would be safe for certain skin colors, such as aggressive chemical peels or laser procedures.  The Fitzpatrick scale ranges from Type I, the fairest skin most susceptible to sunburn and sun damage, to Type VI, the darkest skin most resistant to sunburn and sun damage.  As well, darker skin types tend to be the most susceptible to pigmentation disorders, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (after a blemish or scab has cleared), or melasma.  Although Japanese skin is very fair, it must be treated as Fitzpatrick V, due to the tendency for sensitive Japanese skin to pigment easily.  Aggressive peels and laser protocols must be used cautiously as well.

 

Visible pigment is triggered by an inflammatory response in the skin, so it is important for Asian skin to use gentle products that help calm inflammation in the skin.  Remember that living life every day exposes your skin to factors that contribute to inflammation – from sun exposure and pollution to lifestyle and diet.  Skin care products that use a combination of anti-inflammatory ingredients along with antioxidants (to help protect against free radical damage) help to calm the inflammatory process, which in turn helps improve the appearance of visible pigmentation.

 

My lovely Asian “client” had beautiful skin to begin with, so I concentrated on giving her a gentle but thorough cleansing with Epionce® Milky Lotion Cleanser followed by Epionce® Gentle Foaming Cleanser, using my ultrasonic spatula for very light removal of dead surface cells.  I infused Epionce® Lite Lytic with ultrasound to further deep clean her pores, reduce any redness, and smooth her skin texture.  I followed with an application of Epionce® Enriched Firming Mask to add hydration and further soothe her skin.  While she masked and relaxed, I performed a hand treatment using Epionce® Rebalancing Clarifier and Epionce® Renewal Body Lotion, slipping her hands inside warm mitts.  We finished the facial with a light application of Epionce® Rebalancing Clarifier, Epionce® Renewal Eye Cream, Epionce® Renewal Facial Lotion and Epionce® Active Shield Lotion SPF30+.  She looked absolutely radiant when we were done!

 

The Japanese skin care market has the most stringent regulations in the world regarding ingredient formulations, and products imported from the US must undergo very extensive testing before they are brought into the Japanese market.  This process could take years before a US skin care manufacturer is allowed to retail its products in Japan. 

 

Epionce® products, formulated to nourish the skin with a blend of botanicals and antioxidants, and help calm inflammation in the skin, will be introduced to the Japanese market in the fall of 2008.

Other “beauty blog” sites

I found an interesting beauty blog website last week — it looked legitimate enough when I first started reading.  There were many different “consumer reviews,” including positive, negative and neutral posts on many different skin care lines — like Obagi, Skin Medica, Epionce, Dermalogica.  But it became quite apparent to me after reading several of the reviews that the website was in fact a sponsored website, obviously skewed in the direction of the sponsored product.

So what I would like to point out to the general public is this: when reading a weblog — do make sure that the “facts” and the “reviews” you are reading are true facts and true reviews, not fabricated “reviews” made up by some busy corporate marketing department.

I clicked on the links on this particular website, to try to find out more information about their touted ingredients, Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline.  I wrote to the company for more information on their “clinical results” and asked these questions:

• May I have information on your clinical studies?
• Were these double-blind, controlled clinical studies?
• What were the parameters tested (ie, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, skin clarity, etc)?
• What was tested, the individual ingredient or the finished formula?  What was it tested against (placebo, regular moisturizer, glycerin, etc)?
• How long were the tests conducted?  How many participants were tested?

So … I eagerly awaited my email response … and recieved a form email which was basically another advertisement for Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline … NO answers whatsoever to any of the specific questions I asked — and “we hope this answers all your questions regarding x-y-z product.  Please feel free to contact us with any other questions or concerns that you may have concerning this product.”  Yeah, WHATEVER — thanks for nothing!!

Here’s a fun fact: Of all the ingredients the FDA tests for cosmetics, only 1 out of 350 ingredients actually have activity in the skin when mixed in a formula — so BUYER BEWARE!  Remember, it’s more than does the product feel good and smell good — does the product actually work?

So I used a different sunscreen this weekend …

I am known in the family as the “sunscreen Nazi.”  I spent my childhood summers on the beaches of Southern California, and I’ve now spent the last 10 years trying to undo all that damage (for me, as well as a ton of other women my age who spent their childhoods worshipping the sun)– so I try very hard to make sure my children and the rest of my family are well-protected against the sun (try explaining to your 18-year old daughter that “pale” is really the new “tan”).

Every day without fail, my morning routine includes applying Epionce Active Shield SPF 30+ to my face and neck, followed by a dusting of mineral makeup (with natural SPF 20).  I love Active Shield with micronized zinc oxide, homosalate and octisalate — it absorbs very well and it has just enough moisture for my oily skin that I don’t need a separate moisturizer product in the morning.  The tube is only 2.5 oz though, so I generally don’t use it on the rest of my body — I use a different product to cover body parts.

We went on our first river rafting trip on the Fourth of July, and I bought several different types of my favorite body sunscreen from Neutrogena to protect the family.  I purchased Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 45, along with Active Breathable Sunblock SPF 30 and Ultra Sheer Body Mist SPF 45.  I was intrigued by Age Shield Face SPF 55 with Helioplex technology (a combination of Avobenzone and Octisalate which helps boost UVA protection), so I decided to try it on my face that day … Well, unfortunately by the afternoon, my eyes wouldn’t stop watering (I thought it might have been the wind on the river) — then by the drive home, I was burning and tearing and fogging up (I wear contact lenses and didn’t pack glasses like I should have).  I couldn’t wait to get home, cleanse my face, and put in a new set of contacts.  After I cleansed, I finally felt better.  The rest of my skin was fine; in fact, I was the only one with a weird reaction to any of the sunscreens.  I think it might have been the Avobenzone that irritated my eyes — it is a good broad-spectrum sunscreen ingredient, but it does tend to cause reactions in some people (never happened to me before).

So … I’m going back to my tried and true Epionce Active Shield SPF 30+ for my face … and I will stick with Neutrogena for the rest of my body.