Toners, Clarifiers, Astringents – Oh, my!

Do you really need to use a toner, clarifier or astringent?  Are any of these products really a required part of your personal skin regimen?  My answer is: well, it depends…

 

It depends on why you feel you need to use one of these products – do you feel you need an extra step to help with excess sebum production, or help clear blackheads, or help smooth your skin texture?  Or, do you feel you need a little extra boost of moisture, or something to help calm your itchy, sensitive skin?

 

Astringents were developed back in the days when most of us used bar soaps or Noxzema to cleanse our skin.  Bar soaps are so highly alkaline (our skin barrier is actually slightly acidic), astringents were formulated at a low pH to restore the skin’s acid mantle and help prepare the skin for the next treatment product or moisturizer.  Now, we have many pH-balanced cleansers to choose from, and if you are already using a pH-balanced cleanser, an astringent (now also known as a toner, clarifier, refiner or freshener) is really an optional step in your skin care regimen. 

 

Toners help remove excess cleanser or residue left after cleansing.  Well-formulated toners also contain humectant, anti-oxidant and anti-irritant ingredients, and help soothe sensitive skin.  Toners for oily/acne skin used in place of a moisturizer are also an easy step for teens who like to keep a simple skin care routine. The proper way to use a toner is to apply after cleansing, before serum or moisturizer.

 

Toners for drier/sensitive skin types will contain humectants, which attract moisture to the skin, and other soothing ingredients.  Look for ingredients such as butylene glycol, sorbitol, glycerin, bisabolol, azulene, chamomile, cucumber and date fruit extract.  Notable toners for drier or sensitive skin types include Epionce Rebalancing Clarifier, Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Toner, and SkinCeuticals Revitalizing Toner.

 

Toners for oilier skin types may have a temporary tightening effect on pore appearance, and contain ingredients that help control excess sebum production and kill surface microbes.  Look for ingredients such as witch hazel, grape seed extract, salicylic acid, willow bark extract, and citrus extracts such as lime, lemon or orange.  Notable toners for oilier or acne-prone skin types include Epionce Purifying Lytic Toner, Murad Clarifying Toner, and Paula’s Choice Healthy Skin Refreshing Toner.

 

Toners that contain ingredients such as glycolic or lactic acid also help to encourage cell turnover (when in a pH of less than 4), and are great for anti-aging and skin smoothing benefits.

 

To sum it all up, some people, including me, consider toner or clarifier an optional step; others want to have that little extra step to complete their skin regimen.  There are days, after I’ve shaved my legs or in the colder winter months, when I need a little extra boost of soothing moisture from Epionce Rebalancing Clarifier (it really helps itchy, dry skin).  And there are those “hormonal” days when I need a little spot treatment with Epionce Purifying Lytic Toner.  It really depends on you to decide what works best for you!

Detox – Day Two

Argh.  I have had this headache for two days now — I never get headaches! 😦

I don’t know if it’s from lack of caffeine or the detox herbs, or lack of sugar.  I feel like I don’t eat that much sugar every day!  And one cup of coffee every day shouldn’t cause this much reaction …

Anyway, we made it through one full day of eating restrictions.  Instead of Goodwood, we decided to eat sushi last night.  I know sushi is “meat” but it’s fish, so I felt like I could get away with it.

Breakfast: oatmeal mixed with rice milk, walnuts and bananas, plus a little sprinkle of cinnamon.  We had 12 herbal pills again this morning — I’m NOT liking that part at all.  At least the fiber hasn’t made me feel gassy, not any more than usual.

Lunch: organic black beans with salsa in a whole wheat tortilla.  That was very tasty; in fact, I want another one now (it’s 3:30).  I will settle for a couple more handfuls of barbeque soy nuts instead.  I’m working my way through my second quart of distilled water as I type this.

Dinner: I’m looking forward to organic tomato soup and steamed artichokes (with red wine vinegar dipping sauce) … also can’t wait to get home to some baby carrots and hummus too! 

Tomorrow, the fasting starts and we are on our lemon juice/pure maple syrup/distilled water for the next three days.  This will be interesting since Honey is playing golf on Saturday and we are supposed to watch the game at a friend’s house Saturday evening … Last time we were there we feasted on massive T-Bone steaks and salmon!  Too much temptation.

I want to take an ibuprofen for my headache, but I feel like that wouldn’t be a good thing during the detox.

Detox Experience – Day One

My SO and I have been a little “over-indulgent” over the summer, so we have decided to try a detox program to “clean” our systems before the holiday season.  We hope this will help kick-start our plans for a healthier lifestyle too!

 

Five years ago in esthetician school, I was trained and certified for M’lis, a health and wellness company that specializes in detoxification treatments, along with body wraps and skin care.  Their programs offer drug-free options for those suffering with fibromyalgia, candida (yeast), hormonal imbalance and weight issues.  M’lis was one of the exhibitors at the Medical Aesthetics Conference & Expo in New York a few weeks ago, so I picked up a couple of detox packages for honey and me to try together.

 

I’ve never tried to detox before, so this is going to be an interesting experience.  My sister, who is a veteran of different cleansing programs over the years, told me to report back if anything weird comes out of me.

 

Detox Day One

It doesn’t help that my honey snored most of the night last night, and I did not sleep very well.  I have been worried about the fasting (I really like food, and I’ve been lucky that I haven’t had many weight worries over the years), but I’m trying to keep a positive attitude. 

 

Today, we have to cut meat, dairy, refined sugars and flour from our diets in preparation for our fast in two days.  What does that leave us to eat?  We made a special trip last weekend to the downtown co-op, signed up for membership, and came home with a car load of organic foods.

 

Breakfast: I’m not a big coffee drinker, but I do like a cup in the morning while I check my email.  I went coffee-free this morning, opting for a steamy cup of lemon ginger tea instead.  We had to take a handful of herbal pills this morning: Cleanse, Detox and Fiber (12 total).  I had oatmeal (the long-cooking kind, because it has better fiber) mixed with brown rice, rice milk, cinnamon and chopped walnuts.  It’s held me over pretty well this morning.  I brought barbeque soy nuts and a banana to tide me over through the day.  I am supposed to drink 2 qts of distilled water throughout the day today as well.

 

Lunch: Tomato soup and distilled water.  Yum.

 

Dinner: We have plans to go to Goodwood tonight – yikes!  That’s going to be hard, but I think I’ll do a salad with oil and vinegar.  It’s going to be hard to resist refined bread.  I love bread!  I only have to do this for four more days …

 

I feel a little dizzy and a little head-achy today … I don’t know if it’s from lack of sleep, lack of caffeine, or just my mind feeling funky about fasting.

“Over-the-Counter” Skincare vs. “Cosmeceuticals” or “Pharmaceuticals” – What is the difference?

As a professional esthetician, we often hear these common questions from our clients: What is the difference between a “professional” skin care cosmeceutical vs. a brand you can find “over-the-counter” at a drug or department store?  Is there really a difference, or is it all a bunch of fancy marketing talk and pretty pictures?  Can you get nice results with drugstore cosmetic brands, or will your results be better with professional cosmeceuticals? Too often, consumers fall under the spell of cosmetic company marketing and advertising claims, and will spend a lot of money on expensive over-the-counter cosmetics that really don’t work in the skin.

 

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) divides skin care products into two distinct categories: pharmaceutical and cosmetic.  Topical pharmaceuticals penetrate through the layers of the epidermis and affect the structure and function of the skin (think of prescription topical steroids or Retin-A).  Cosmetics are defined as ” … articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance …”  Pharmaceutical drugs may undergo more than 10 years of drug approval testing that may cost hundreds of millions of dollars — whereas, cosmetics do not have to prove their claims, but they can cite “scientific studies” of the ingredients used in their product formulations to validate the safety and efficacy of the ingredient formula.

 

Cosmeceuticals are the “happy medium” between a pharmaceutical and a cosmetic.  The word “cosmeceutical” really is not categorized by the FDA, but it is a word that is used in the professional skin care arena to describe a cosmetic that actually has biological action, but is regulated as a cosmetic — meaning, again, the formula does not technically have to prove efficacy or safety, but it does contain an ingredient that may have activity in the skin.

 

You will find many of the same catch phrases when you read an advertisement for skin care: “Dermatologist-Tested,” “Clinically Proven,” “Clinical Studies show that …,” “Clinically Tested.”  But interpret these phrases with caution, especially when trying to choose a skin care line that works best for your practice and clientele.  Since cosmetic companies really don’t have to prove efficacy claims, the special active ingredient touted in the formula only has to appear somewhere on the ingredient list — ingredients are listed in content order, from most to least, so if you see that “active” on the last half of the list (usually alphabetically) you can bet you are getting a tiny percentage (enough to be effective in the formulation?) of that specific ingredient. When you see these types of claims, start asking questions:

 

·     What was tested — an individual ingredient or the finished formulation?

·     How was it tested, in-vitro (in a test tube or petri dish, in an ideal environment), or was it tested in-vivo (on actual skin)?

·     Were the studies double-blinded (meaning, the person applying the product and the person evaluating the results each have no knowledge of what they are applying or evaluating; it is strictly objective)

·     Was the formula tested against placebo cream (like glycerin or petrolatum), or against nothing, or against another type of similar product?

·     How long was the test conducted?  On how many participants?

 

Because many consumers “self-diagnose” when choosing a skin care product to try from a drug or department store, these products must be made safely, meaning, big cosmetic companies cannot afford to have masses of consumers with issues from using very active products — so, that skin care product may feel good and smell good, but it likely won’t have a lot of activity in the formulation.

 

Over-the-counter cosmetics are also manufactured and distributed in very large batches, and are packed with almost as many preservatives as “active” ingredients!  In addition, many over-the-counter cosmetics simply do not penetrate the skin barrier, where the ingredient formula would have a therapeutic benefit to the health of the skin.   Remember too, it’s not just about one really fabulous ingredient — it’s the mixture of the right amounts of active ingredients working synergistically together that work best in the skin, similar to how oral multivitamins work internally in our bodies with a mixture of vitamins and minerals for best absorption.

 

It is important to note that many single ingredients that test very well in in-vitro testing actually have no function in human skin when mixed into a formulation — yet, we still believe the “clinical study” claims from in-vitro studies.  As well, many companies that cite clinical study results will not provide clinical study documentation.  Rare is the cosmeceutical company that tests their finished formulations and then offers full clinical study details for the public to see.  You will sometimes find peer-reviewed cosmetic formulation studies in dermatology or cosmetic surgery journals, which lends more credibility to the testing process.

 

Since licensed estheticians do not prescribe pharmaceutical products, offering a well formulated and tested cosmeceutical line is the next best option to pharmaceuticals.  Cosmeceuticals that are professionally recommended by a licensed esthetician, physician or other educated skin care professional generally have a higher amount of active ingredients with proven and safe formulations, and offer delivery systems that reach targeted cells in the skin.  In your search for safe and effective skincare for your clientele, try to find cosmeceutical companies that offer clinical testing information, and learn how to ask questions and interpret clinical study details.  As a licensed skin care professional, research is imperative to help make the best decision for your clients.

 

 

Special Skin Care Concerns – Treating Asian Skin

Our Japanese partners from Osaka were visiting our corporate office last week and I got to perform a facial on one of the women on the team, which was a very special privilege for me.  Here in Boise, I don’t get many chances to work on Asian skin very often.

 

Asian skin is very delicate skin, and Asian women are very concerned about keeping their skin as light as possible.  Products that help with hyperpigmentation are highly regarded and coveted especially in the Japanese-Asian skin care market – but those pigmentation treatment products must also be formulated for very sensitive skin as well. 

 

Years ago, renowned dermatologist Dr. Thomas Fitzpatrick created a way to classify skin type by the tendency to burn or tan when exposed to the sun.  This Fitzpatrick skin typing helped the skin care professional determine which types of treatments would be safe for certain skin colors, such as aggressive chemical peels or laser procedures.  The Fitzpatrick scale ranges from Type I, the fairest skin most susceptible to sunburn and sun damage, to Type VI, the darkest skin most resistant to sunburn and sun damage.  As well, darker skin types tend to be the most susceptible to pigmentation disorders, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (after a blemish or scab has cleared), or melasma.  Although Japanese skin is very fair, it must be treated as Fitzpatrick V, due to the tendency for sensitive Japanese skin to pigment easily.  Aggressive peels and laser protocols must be used cautiously as well.

 

Visible pigment is triggered by an inflammatory response in the skin, so it is important for Asian skin to use gentle products that help calm inflammation in the skin.  Remember that living life every day exposes your skin to factors that contribute to inflammation – from sun exposure and pollution to lifestyle and diet.  Skin care products that use a combination of anti-inflammatory ingredients along with antioxidants (to help protect against free radical damage) help to calm the inflammatory process, which in turn helps improve the appearance of visible pigmentation.

 

My lovely Asian “client” had beautiful skin to begin with, so I concentrated on giving her a gentle but thorough cleansing with Epionce® Milky Lotion Cleanser followed by Epionce® Gentle Foaming Cleanser, using my ultrasonic spatula for very light removal of dead surface cells.  I infused Epionce® Lite Lytic with ultrasound to further deep clean her pores, reduce any redness, and smooth her skin texture.  I followed with an application of Epionce® Enriched Firming Mask to add hydration and further soothe her skin.  While she masked and relaxed, I performed a hand treatment using Epionce® Rebalancing Clarifier and Epionce® Renewal Body Lotion, slipping her hands inside warm mitts.  We finished the facial with a light application of Epionce® Rebalancing Clarifier, Epionce® Renewal Eye Cream, Epionce® Renewal Facial Lotion and Epionce® Active Shield Lotion SPF30+.  She looked absolutely radiant when we were done!

 

The Japanese skin care market has the most stringent regulations in the world regarding ingredient formulations, and products imported from the US must undergo very extensive testing before they are brought into the Japanese market.  This process could take years before a US skin care manufacturer is allowed to retail its products in Japan. 

 

Epionce® products, formulated to nourish the skin with a blend of botanicals and antioxidants, and help calm inflammation in the skin, will be introduced to the Japanese market in the fall of 2008.