BEFORE & AFTER IMAGES – DO YOU REALLY GET WHAT YOU SEE?

Photo taken the same day. Note the smoothing of texture and fine lines with the use of different filters.

Commonly used in the cosmetics industry, before and after images illustrate a compelling marketing story:

“After using product X-Y-Z for xx amount of time, this patient went from looking like this… to looking like THIS!”

Or, “After xx many treatments with this remarkable device, this patient saw THESE incredible results!”

The untrained eye of the consumer may find this type of photography very impressive … but do you really get what you see?

I have spent almost two years taking before and after photos for various studies being conducted, and it has been a real wake-up call for me to see how easy it is to skew end-result pictures.  It is important for you to try to examine before and after images with a discerning eye, and identify tricks of manipulation that are used in the skincare industry to help make results look better than they actually are.

Photographing the Eye Area

Why is the eye area the most common before and after images we see?  One reason is because it is extremely easy to manipulate the appearance of the eye area.  A simple change of humidity in the room, or application of plain glycerin to the skin will create a more visually smooth skin texture.

Different Filters/Shadows/Flash

As you peruse before and after photographs, take note of shadows in the images – do the befores have more shading under the neck or eye area than the afters?

One of the easiest ways to create a “visual change” in before and after photography is the use of different camera filters or flash settings.  It is especially easy to change the way a person looks simply by adjusting the flash setting.  For example, one setting will accentuate fine lines, wrinkles and pore size, while using a different setting with flat lighting will “magically smooth” those features.  Other settings will make pigmentation less visible.

Facial Expression and Positioning

Smiling or frowning in the before picture will definitely enhance an after image taken with no expression on the face. 

As well, facial features can change if the positioning in each photo changes even slightly, and the distance from client to camera lens should always be the same.

Use of Makeup/other enhancements

Changes to jewelry, hair color or style, or injections such as Botox and/or fillers can all make an after image appear more impressive.

Length of Time from Before to After

As you are flipping through impressive looking pages of before and after images, note the length of time indicated from the first before photo to the after photo.  Does the length of time switch around from weeks to months or years?  For example, are the photos going from an 8-week span to an 8-month span, then back to a 16-week span?  It is important that the length of time remains somewhat consistent or that you are able to note differences from one set of pictures to another.

The important take-home lesson from today’s blog is this: when you visit a skin professional for a product or service based on amazing before and after photographs, it is important that the provider communicates realistic expectations.  Remember, realistic goals and a teamwork effort between you and your skin care expert will give you the results you desire.

HEALTHY SKIN AT ANY AGE, PART ONE – YOUR TEENAGE YEARS

For those who believe they have naturally “healthy” skin, it still requires a bit of work. What’s also true is that “unhealthy” skin may not require a lot more work than healthy skin.

Your skin cells are on a regular reproduction cycle that happens every 28-32 days.  During the teens and twenties, your skin cells are reproducing at their optimum rate. Teenagers, in particular, are vulnerable to skin problems because they are also experiencing many hormonal changes in their bodies during these years.  For this age group, if you can develop good habits at an early age, you may be able to avoid serious issues with acne and other troubling skin conditions.

For my own teens as well as others, I suggest the following basic skin care rules to follow:

1. TRY TO STAY CONSISTENT!  One of the most important things to remember as a teenager is to stay consistent with your skin care routine.  Even if you are only able (or willing) to cleanse your face once a day (yes, to remove makeup, because you don’t want to sleep with your makeup on), stick to it.  It helps to have a very simple routine: Cleanser, toner or treatment product, sunscreen (AM daily); or cleanser, toner or treatment product, barrier repairing product (PM daily).  If someone is trying to talk you into any more than three steps, consider what is realistically easiest for you to do on a daily basis.  And stop switching products every couple of weeks if you think something isn’t working.  Sometimes it takes time for your skin to adjust to a new product or routine, so give it at least six to eight weeks.  Talk to your skin care professional if you are having troubles with products he or she has recommended for you so that adjustments can be made, if necessary.
2. DON’T PICK!  We may have all heard this from our parents, but I am repeating it here: Keep your hands off your face.  And for moms out there like my mom was with me: Keep your hands off your kid’s face.  Nothing spreads acne and other nasty bacteria more than touching your face with your germ-laden hands.  Picking will drive bacteria further into the follicle and could create more irritation and inflammation.  Picking may also lead to permanent scarring.  It can happen subconsciously, without even thinking about it – but try your best to stay aware of what you are doing. Try this next time you get the urge to pick or pop something on your face (or neck, chest or back): grab an ice-cube and a paper towel.  Press the ice-cube against the area that is bothering you, and the paper towel will absorb the water as it melts.  This will keep your hands busy, and reduce inflammation (swelling and redness) at the same time.
3. MORE IS NOT BETTER!  BE NICE TO YOUR SKIN!  Along the lines of a consistent routine, you need to keep it simple.  Slamming your face with a benzoyl-peroxide (BPO) cleanser, a BPO toner, and a BPO treatment product is a lot of BPO.  BPO can trigger inflammation and free radical action in the skin, which could actually cause more damage in the long run.  Instead, if you are using a BPO toner or treatment product, use a gentle foaming or gel cleanser and skin barrier-repairing product.  In addition, you don’t need to use a lot of muscle to properly cleanse your face.  Throw out harsh scrubbing products, which could cause micro-tears in your skin (leading to more inflammation and irritation, and spreading of bacteria).  Washcloths and cleansing scrubbers or sponges also harbor a lot of bacteria, especially when they are not changed on a regular basis.  It’s better to just use your hands to cleanse and rinse your face, and gently pat—don’t rub—your face dry.  If you feel you need regular exfoliation treatments, talk to a skin care professional.
4. STAY AWAY FROM TANNING BEDS! I cannot emphasize this point enough. In fact, I hope you never see the inside of a tanning bed.  Just one time in a tanning bed increases your chances of melanoma skin cancer (the deadliest form) by 50%.  UV rays age us more than any other environmental factor out there, with smoking coming in at a close second place. Get used to the idea that pale skin is the “new tan,” or the real look of healthy skin.  Have you seen any lifelong sun worshipers’ skin lately?  It looks leathery, wrinkled, spotty, and generally appears a lot older than it really is.  Wearing makeup with sunscreen isn’t enough protection because makeup application gives inconsistent coverage.  Include SPF 30 sunscreen with broad-spectrum ingredients (Zinc Oxide or Avobenzone if you are prone to break-outs) in your daily routine, applied just before your makeup in the morning. 
5. DON’T SMOKE! Unless you want to look old and ugly.  Smoking is not cool, no matter what age you are.  Not only is smoking bad for your overall health, it decreases oxygen levels in your skin and causes skin congestion.  Nicotine addiction is one of the hardest habits to break – don’t even get started.

Finally, know when to consult a professional when your skin is bothering you.  If you are suffering from acne as a teen, you need to see a licensed esthetician or a physician if your skin is very inflamed (red) with more than 25 open and closed comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), and papules, pustules or cysts (the ones you want to squeeze).

Caring for your skin should become an easy habit, like brushing your teeth twice a day.  The earlier you begin your skin care routine, the easier it will be for you to maintain your healthy skin.

The New Ideal in Skin Health: Separating Fact from Fiction

The doctor I work with and I spent most of 2009 writing a textbook together, so I wasn’t able to devote much time to my blog last year.  It was a wonderful collaboration that wouldn’t have happened without Carl Thornfeldt, I, and my supremely talented, level-headed and supportive co-worker, Trish Stack. I am so grateful to have been involved with this incredible opportunity and to be able to share my knowledge and experiences.  Practicing esthetics is my passion, and publishing a book has always been a lifelong dream of mine.

Our book, entitled, “The New Ideal in Skin Health: Separating Fact from Fiction” is dedicated to those of you involved in the professional skin care arena who desire an education beyond what you have learned in the esthetic classroom.  This takes your knowledge further than 600 hours of esthetic training, or a weekend with a laser representative.  Whether you are a medical professional who is beginning to explore a new direction or an esthetician looking for new opportunities, this book is your resource to help you make the best choices in our industry.  Topics covered include:

• Dispelling myths about products, ingredients and skin biology
• Assisting professionals to make the best decisions based on real science
• Advice to help build your business in volume and patient loyalty

We provide excellent foundational knowledge that will help guide any skin care professional throughout their entire career.

For further details and chapter samples, please visit: http://www.alluredbooks.com/ or Amazon.com

Now that our book has been released, my goal for 2010 is to get back on the blog track to share concise, important skin care information with you, as often as possible.

Coming soon: A series on Healthy Aging at Any Age: Healthy Alternatives to Plastic Surgery or Laser Treatments

Your Fall Skin Renewal Plan

Summer is just about over, and it’s time to undo all the damage from spending long hours outside enjoying the warm sunshine.  Although spring is considered the time for yearly renewal, fall is a great time to start developing your skin renewal plan.  With the daily hours of sunlight waning, this is the best time of year to consider asking your skin care practitioner about skin rejuvenation treatments such as chemical peels or microdermabrasion, laser facial resurfacing and facial plastic surgery procedures.  Even if your skin is in perfect condition, it’s an ideal time to indulge in at least one seasonal deep-cleansing facial before the dry winter months.

Fall is also the optimal time of year to start thinking about hair removal options.  Since laser hair removal generally requires a series of 4-10 treatments spaced 4-8 weeks apart for best results, beginning a laser hair removal series now will have you razor-free and smooth by next summer.

Clinical rejuvenation treatments will smooth your skin texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and visible spots.   Resurfacing treatments will also trigger the acute inflammatory process to encourage collagen and elastin production, and begin the healing process.  Proper post-care is crucial as well, to stop the acute inflammatory process before it becomes a chronic condition, which could further harm your skin. 

Whether you decide to undergo a complete facial rejuvenation series, indulge in a seasonal facial, or start laser hair removal treatments, home care is still a very important part of your skin care plan.  The healthier your skin barrier is before your procedure, the better your healing and results will be, along with a lower chance of complications.  Look for home care cosmeceutical products that are formulated with ingredients that calm chronic inflammatory factors, and protect and strengthen your protective skin barrier (the outermost layers of your skin). Ingredients that help calm inflammation and have antioxidant properties include date palm extract, meadowfoam, apple, flax and avocado.  Ingredients that help repair and strengthen the skin barrier include safflower oil, meadowfoam seed extract, phytosterols and phytosphingosine.  Many products claim to calm inflammation or build your barrier, but they don’t do both, so ask your skin care professional to recommend the right products that work best for your skin care goals.

With summer winding down, fall is the best time of year to renew our skin after the warm sunny months of summer. Time spent outdoors is healthy for our bodies, but it can create a lot of environmental injury to our skin – injuries that won’t appear for another five to twenty years down the road.  Your skin care professional will help you take care of your skin and minimize the damage of the summer with a comprehensive fall skin treatment plan.

SUNSCREEN 101

We learned in my previous blog that sunscreen is your best protection against  visible skin aging and skin cancer.  You are now ready to go out and purchase your summer supply of sunscreen, so let’s run down a few of the basic rules before you break out your wallet.

1. Basically, SPF protects you from UVB rays, or the burning rays.  SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor.  In more specific terms, it’s really about Sunburn Protection Factor.  The SPF rating on a package of sunscreen indicates the number of minutes you will be protected from burning in the sun.  SPF multiplied by the number of minutes it takes you to burn (without protection) gives you the amount of time your skin will be protected from burning.  For example, if your skin burns in the sun after 10 minutes with no sun protection, a SPF 15 will give you 15 times 10 minutes of protection, or 150 minutes of protection before your skin starts to burn.  An SPF 30 will give you 300 minutes of protection, if you normally burn after 10 minutes with no protection.

 2. In addition to UVB protection, we also need UVA protection.  UVA rays are the ones we do not feel – they penetrate deeper into the skin and cause visible aging and skin cancer.  Even though sunscreen products are labeled “broad-spectrum protection,” learn how to correctly decipher an ingredient list.  Look for at least one of these ingredients on the Active Ingredients list:

• Avobenzone (Parsol 1789)
• Titanium Dioxide
• Zinc Oxide
• Mexoryl (Ecamsule)

 Many sunscreens are formulated with ingredients that “sound” like these – but again, you want at least ONE of these EXACT ingredients for proper UVA protection.  If you do not see at least one of these ingredients on the Active Ingredient list, try a different sunscreen.  At a trip to my local drugstore recently, it was easier for me to find many sunscreen products that DO include at least one of these ingredients rather than sunscreens that don’t.

 Some common questions about sunscreen:

1. How much sunscreen do I need to protect my whole body?  How much should I wear to protect my face?

For proper all-over protection, start with at least 1 full ounce (the size of a shot glass) of product to cover your entire exposed body parts.  Remember too that clothing does not provide full protection, so definitely consider covering the unexposed areas as well.  For the face and neck, apply about ½ teaspoon.  Don’t forget about your ears and the back of your neck.  This means you will need to purchase several tubes of sunscreen this summer. 

 2. Why do I have to reapply?  Aren’t I protected all day when I put on a SPF 30?

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends two full applications to cool dry skin spaced 30 minutes apart every morning, to help protect all day.  The reason why reapplication is recommended is that sun exposure mixed with the acid mantle in your skin will break down the effectiveness of your sunscreen after a couple of hours.  And reapplication is necessary after spending time in the water or after sweating.  

 3. Why do I still get tan when I wear sun protection?

SPF is protecting your skin from burning and cancer, but not from turning tan.  For fairer to medium skin types, a tan is the immune system’s way of protecting the skin from exposure, which means any tan in the skin is really a sign of damage.  No sunscreen, no matter how high a SPF rating it has, will completely block all rays – unless you are wearing 100% zinc oxide (like the lifeguards do).  SPF 2 gives a 50% block, a SPF 15 provides a 92% block, and SPF 30 provides about a 94% block.

4. Which ingredients are better for sensitive skin, or if I break out when I wear sunscreen?

If you have sensitive skin, look for Zinc Oxide as the Active Ingredient.  If you have a tendency to break out, try to find non-comedogenic formulas made with Avobenzone or Zinc Oxide.

In conclusion, visible skin aging really plays a secondary part to deadly or disfiguring skin cancer.  In recent years, skin cancers have become epidemic in the United States — with that knowledge, we need to be more proactive when it comes to protecting ourselves from harmful damaging UV radiation that occurs on a daily basis.

More sunscreen education to coming soon!

Please check out my Facebook quiz: What is your Skin Cancer Risk?

Why Sunscreen is Your Best Anti-aging Cream, or “Pale is the New Tan”*

As an esthetician, I often get asked about “which product is the best anti-wrinkle cream.”  Usually this question comes from someone closer to my age range (let’s say I’m between 35 and 60) and not from someone closer to my daughter’s age (let’s say she’s between 0 and 20), when it actually makes more sense to think about preventing wrinkles.  My answer is always the same: the best anti-wrinkle cream is sunscreen – worn every day when you were a child.  (Insert admonishing smile here.)

 

Our bodies (and skin) age two basic ways:  through internal, unavoidable factors (called intrinsic aging), and through external factors (called extrinsic aging) such as sun exposure, pollution, smoking, harsh topical products and stress.  Intrinsic aging only accounts for about 20 percent of the way we age – extrinsic factors cover the other 80 percent!  This means we have control over 80 percent of how we visibly age.

 

The sun, otherwise known as UVA and UVB radiation, is the number one environmental factor that ages us the most.  I didn’t want to believe it either, but it’s true.  I can think of few people who love the sun more than me (having grown up on the sunny beaches of Southern California, no summer complete without at least a few major sunburns before achieving a golden tan), but the sun is not exactly our best friend (as much as we want it to be) – unless you don’t mind your best friend giving you skin cancer, sagging skin, fine lines and wrinkles, broken capillaries and sun spots (thanks, friend!).

 

We actually get most of our cell-damaging sun exposure by the time we reach age 20.  And it takes about 5 to 20 years to actually see that damage in your skin (which explains why so many clients who visit skin care professionals to repair their skin are over age 35 – that’s when the damage we did in our teens and 20’s starts to become visible in the skin).  This is why it is so important to teach our kids about wearing sunscreen on a daily basis – getting into a habit that’s as easy to do as brushing your teeth every morning before you leave for school.

 

There is a silver lining out there for individuals who love the sun – studies have shown that applying a SPF 30 sunscreen on a daily basis will help reverse some of that damage you did years ago.  For those of us who absolutely have to be in the sun, wearing sunscreen doesn’t mean you won’t get a little color in your skin – sunscreen with UVA/UVB broad-spectrum protection is protecting you from skin cancer.  Look for products that contain antioxidants blended with these active ingredients: Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Avobenzone (Parsol 1789) or Mexoryl (Ecamsule).  Apply at least 1 oz (the size of a full shot glass) to cover your entire body, 30 minutes before you go outside.  Don’t rely on SPF in makeup for adequate coverage – always use sunscreen first, then apply makeup with sunscreen for extra protection.

 

Blame Coco Chanel.  It was she who made a glowing tan a fashionable sign of “healthy” skin back in the 1920’s.  Until Coco’s arrival in Paris after a cruise from Cannes, a tan was seen as a sign of the working class.  Lily-white, pale skin was coveted by many societies.  But Ms. Chanel’s golden glow created a trend that has lasted almost 100 years.  With all that we know now, and with the growing numbers of skin cancers and precancers diagnoses, along with visible aging, it’s time to rethink that trend and start wearing sunscreen.

 

*This is the first blog in a series on sun protection.  May is Skin Cancer Awareness Month.

 

MY CLARISONIC

Estheticians love tools – especially tools that provide exfoliation options.  Have you heard of the Clarisonic?  I am in love with mine.  It is so much more than an ordinary exfoliating device – it’s like a hand-held facial massage tool.  The Clarisonic was created by Sonicare, the same company that brought us the Sonic toothbrush technology.

 

Under the chemical or mechanical exfoliating categories, the Clarisonic would be a form of mechanical exfoliation, along with physical scrubs (granular bead-like ingredients), hand-held brushes, ultrasonic skin spatulas and microdermabrasion.  Unlike the standard esthetic rotary brush, which turns in one constant direction, it moves in several different directions at once.   In fact the Clarisonic micro-massage technology makes 300 movements per second, to really deep clean the surface of the skin. 

 

Like the Sonicare toothbrush, it is programmed to “beep” at timed intervals to prompt you to move to different areas of the face while cleansing.  For example, on the one-minute setting, you will cleanse your forehead for 20-seconds, your nose/mouth/chin area for 20-seconds, and finish on each side of your cheeks/jawline for 10-seconds each.

 

After using the Clarisonic, your skin feels ultra-clean and smooth, and skin care products penetrate easier and faster.  According to the Clarisonic website, “you will notice an improvement in the appearance of pores, skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, and absorption of serums and moisturizers.”  The website also shows before-and-after pictures of cleansing manually vs. the Clarisonic.  It was shown that with the Clarisonic, 6 times more makeup was removed than with hand cleansing.

 

There are inter-changeable heads available for the Clarisonic, depending on your skin type and skin condition.  The shortest bristle brush is the Regular Brush Head, suitable for normal skin, décolleté and body; the medium bristle is the Sensitive Brush Head for sensitive to normal skin; the longest bristle is the Delicate Brush Head for delicate or sensitive skin.  There is also a new brush head called the Spot Therapy Brush Head for areas of the body that may need extra attention, such as the décolleté, arms, legs, elbows and feet.  It is recommended to replace the brush heads after 3-4 months of twice daily usage.

 

For personal use, the manufacturers of Clarisonic say that it can be used twice daily.  For those clients who like the Clarisonic at home, I recommend oilier skin types use it only 2-4 times a week; normal to dry types may use it more often.  I am an oilier skin type, so I use it 2-4 times a week to help keep my pores clear and my skin smooth.  I will also use it at 3 or 4 days post-chemical peel, when my face is no longer sensitive and the first flakes start to appear on my skin surface.

 

 

There are a couple of different ways estheticians can use the Clarisonic in their practice, including retailing the product to clients.  Because the mark up is relatively low and the retail price is relatively high for an at-home treatment, I generally prefer to keep the Clarisonic as a back bar modality.  When performing a relaxing facial, set the brush to turn off the timed beeps which might be distracting to your client on the bed.  My favorite way to use the device is during my second cleanse, before a chemical peel procedure, to enhance penetration of the peel (NOTrecommended for first-time peelers), or I would use it prior to an IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) procedure.  I also like to use it for smoothing keratosis pilaris (the little red bumps that appear on the backs of arms and legs).  I disinfect my brush heads in hospital-grade disinfectant and air dry.

 

As an esthetician considers adding to her treatment arsenal, the Clarisonic makes a very good option, whether you keep it on your back bar to offer your clients something special – or you choose to offer it as a retail item.

 

Photo accessed from google images, 3/23/2009.

WHAT IS AN ESTHETICIAN?

A licensed esthetician is likely to partake in this conversation more than once during her career:

 

“What do you do?”

“I’m an esthetician.”

“Oh, you’re an anesthetist?  Isn’t that interesting …”

Well, sometimes I put people to sleep, our esthetician thinks to herself …

 

The word esthetics comes from the Greek word aesthētikos, which means to have an appreciation of beauty.  An esthetician (or aesthetician) is a person who is professionally interested in the health and beauty of the skin.  Since my teen years, I have been obsessed with skin and eyebrows (not just mine, but everyone else’s), but I never realized I could make a living with it until my mid-thirties.

 

Estheticians, also known as beauty therapists in various parts of the world, sometimes suffer from an identity crisis – estheticians are not cosmetologists, who are trained in hair, skin and nails; and they are not massage therapists, although esthetics training covers rudimentary massage techniques.

 

Licensed estheticians are trained skin professionals, who have a passion for learning elemental details about the inner workings of the skin.  Estheticians study anatomy and physiology, skin analysis, cosmetic chemistry, cosmetic ingredient formulations, various treatment modalities including laser and light therapies, how to prepare and care for skin undergoing deep resurfacing or other surgical procedures; as well as hair removal, massage techniques and make-up artistry skills.

 

A caring, compassionate individual who enjoys working closely with people, a licensed esthetician is not afraid to touch, or to examine skin flaws with her trained eye and to recommend professional products that she has thoroughly researched and believes will be best-suited for your skin care goals. Like a carpenter who admires his handiwork after the house is built, an esthetician will rejoice in your smooth, clear skin after a microdermabrasion or chemical peel series with home care she has recommended for you.

 

Here in the United States, esthetic school is a trade school.  There are no national required standards in esthetic education, however, most states require at least 600 hours (approximately 4 months) of schooling before an esthetic student is allowed to take her practical and written exam for licensure.  And although not a requirement for license renewal in most states, many estheticians choose to take continuing education classes throughout the year to stay current on the most up-to-date skin care products, equipment and treatments.

 

Possibilities for rewarding career options include working in a skin care salon, day or medical spa; running a solo esthetic practice; representing a skin care line; make up artist; salon or spa director or consultant; educator or school director; assistant to a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon; on-site esthetician specializing in pre- and post-operative skin care; corrective skin care specialist or make-up artist for patients with burns or disfigurement; corporate esthetician advising research and manufacturing; beauty editor or writer; freelance writer and lecturer.

 

A typical day for an esthetician in a clinical environment will include skin care consultations and analysis, assessing each client’s personal skin care goals and recommending a plan of action to reach those goals.  If the plan includes surgery or laser resurfacing, the esthetician will outline proper pre- and post-treatment care to help the client attain optimal skin health prior to surgery and to prepare the skin for post-procedure healing.  This may include a series of microdermabrasion, chemical peel treatments or deep cleansing facials prior to surgery, followed by skin soothing facials after surgery.  She will also document the client’s progress with before and after pictures, and record treatment notes in each client’s chart. 

 

Oftentimes, in a physician’s office that has an attached medical spa, an esthetician is the manager of the product retail center, and will choose and sell product lines that best suit patient/client needs.  In addition, the esthetician will provide make-up consultation services for post-procedure camouflage, if necessary.  In a medical spa environment, under a physician or nurse practitioner supervision, a licensed esthetician may provide laser therapies such as laser hair removal, vascular-spider vein or intense pulsed light treatments (for wrinkles and pigment), and even endermologie treatments (machine massage for cellulite).

 

In a dermatology office, an esthetician may be utilized as more of a medical assistant, and the focus may be more clinical than in the cosmetic surgery or medical spa facility.  Esthetician job responsibilities within this environment will include simple facial cleansings while the physician administers advanced peels, assisting during surgeries, ordering supplies and performing extractions.

 

Many entrepreneurial estheticians choose to operate their own independent practice, which works well for the business-minded individual.  In order to succeed, the independent esthetician must have a solid business plan that includes marketing and promoting her business in addition to deciding product lines to carry and treatments to offer.  Some solo estheticians will specialize in specific avenues of esthetics, such as waxing or makeup services or clinical facial treatments.

 

Calling an esthetician a “beautician” or a “facialist” is as outdated as calling a flight attendant a “stewardess” or an “air hostess.”  Esthetics has come a long way since the days of Helena Rubenstein beauty spas in the early 1900’s.  It is a growing field, one that will continue to remain strong as long as people feel the need to remove unwanted hair and fight the visible signs of aging.

The Low-Down on Mascara

Please help!  I wish I had eyelashes, but every time I use mascara it just flakes in my eyes, so end up rubbing it off and then it smears everywhere!

 

Here are a few of my personal tips on using mascara:

 

1. Mascara should be replaced every 2-3 months — if any of your mascara is older than that — throw it out! Because you are applying to your eyes, you should always use fresh product — and $10 every 2-3 months is not too much for healthy eyes! Whenever I get new mascara, I get my daughter new mascara, just so hers is fresh too. If your mascara flakes, it could be because it is really old product.

2. Never add water or saliva to your mascara — it will add bacteria.

3. Never share mascara — no matter what! Unless you are using disposable applicators, and one-dip only (no double-dipping).

4. Don’t do the pump-pump-pump thing either — pumping adds air, which adds bacteria.  Do a swirl with the applicator inside the bottom of the tube and wipe the excess off from the top rim.  If it is too blobby looking when you pull out the applicator, swipe the excess product on a tissue before applying.

5. I almost never use mascara on my lower lashes, especially during the day. Upper lashes only.  Makeup artist Bobbi Brown recommends 2-4 layers of mascara to add volume, applied before each layer dries.

6. I usually only apply 1-2 layers of mascara in the daytime — I dip in once and apply to both eyes with the one dip. I don’t usually dip twice, unless I’m going out and I want extra volume.  I hold the wand horizontal to my lashes, and wiggle-apply from roots to tips, separating lashes as I go.

 

7. For those with lighter hair color — try brown-black instead of black. Use black only at night time.

8. Use waterproof mascara sparingly, only for special occasions when you know you need your mascara to stay in place instead of dripping down your face from excess perspiration or tears.  Waterproof mascara is usually removable with an oil-based product.

9. I always apply my makeup before I dry my hair in the morning. Mascara is always last — then when I turn on the blow dryer, I direct the warm air on my lashes for a few seconds to help it dry (I think it adds a “curl” boost too).

10. Make sure you remove your mascara at night when you wash your face! The easiest way to do it is use your cleanser to do it. I never do a “make up removal step” ever. I’m way too lazy.

 

11. Lash tinting will give your lashes “permanent” color that lasts about 3-4 weeks.  Tinting will not add volume or length, but it is especially nice for those women with light colored lashes.  Look for an experienced esthetician or cosmetologist that uses a vegetable dye instead of dye with coal tar.

 

12. My absolute favorites are Max Factor Lash Perfection or Volume Couture — the applicator is rubbery, and you can apply from roots to tips without blobbing, or flaking, or a mess. I never get flakes (it would drive me crazy with my contacts). I also have bought a similar kind called Define-A-Lash Lengthening Mascara by Maybelline for my daughter (with the rubber applicator) and Almay has one like that for sensitive eyes. There are other new kinds out there that actually encase each lash in a little “tube” of mascara – Blinc Kiss Me or L’oreal Double Extend Beauty Tubes.  I’ve tried Blinc before, and I still like Max Factor better.

 

The “Promise” of Beauty

I think I finally found the perfect lipstick shade.  Really.  I have been searching forever.  But I think this one is really it.  In my mind, the perfect shade looked slightly deeper than my naked lip shade, a kind of deeper rosy hue, not too pink, not too plummy, not too mauve.  But this shade, called “Luscious” from the new Jane Iredale Lip Crayons – is perfection.

 

I think about this every time I look at cosmetic products … each product whispers a little promise: “if you use this little goodie, you will be beautiful.”  I read recently that women who go out to purchase a new lipstick will very likely come home with the exact same shade that they’ve purchased twenty times before.  I know I have at least 10 of the same shade of lipstick (different brands) at home – but it’s that “promise” I keep hearing that makes me want to purchase again … maybe this time, it will be the perfect shade and my search will be over, says my brain.

 

It started with the emails from Jane Iredale (well, not Jane personally, but the advertising emails).  I was mesmerized by these five beautiful pieces, this tiny collection of colors that work for any season.  I swear, those emails spoke to me somehow.  And then, I was visiting Marod Medical Spa in Twin Falls a few days ago, and not only was I seduced by the fabulous retail section, but there it was – the new Lip Crayons set.  Not only are the colors wonderful, they go on creamy and smooth, like a lipstick, not like a liner (and there’s a sharpener on the actual box, like a box of crayons) … I could hear, yet again, that “promise” of beauty calling out to me …

 

I was definitely a girly-girl when I was growing up, but I never learned much about makeup.  My mom was more of a tomboy, she was athletic and into sports; she was naturally beautiful and didn’t wear much makeup other than a little mascara and a quick swipe of lipstick.  Even growing up with two sisters and many close girlfriends didn’t spark a lot of interest, other than what foundation shade worked best to cover my teen acne.

 

So, although I wore some makeup as a teen, I was never a “lipstick girl.”  Maybe I had been traumatized by the neon orange-red shade we wore when performing with the marching band (which stained our lips for a week afterward).  But lipstick was always the last thing that went on my face.  It wasn’t until my early thirties with a best friend who never left the house without her lipstick that I actually got into wearing it.  And after trying out various shades of sienna, plum, cocoa, mauve and berry over the years, I became obsessed with finding that perfect shade.

 

As an esthetician, I learned makeup theory and some hands-on practice in esthetic school, but my overall experience has concentrated more on clinical treatments.  I use very basic makeup techniques on my clients (enough to quickly cover the skin before the ride home).  Considering all the cosmetics choices I have, most work days I get by with the basics — a little mineral foundation over my sunscreen, a pat of blush, a smidge of liner and mascara, and of course, a little lipstick or gloss.  On the weekends, I hardly wear anything on my face besides sun protection. The most fun I get to have with makeup is trying out new looks on my daughter or her friends for proms and other formal occasions (they actually trust me, bless them – but it’s not the makeup that makes the girls look amazing).  I truly admire those estheticians who specialize in makeup application, who have impressive portfolios of beautiful before and after pictures of their best work, who can deal with brides, mothers-of-the-brides, and other nervous nellies.

 

Does finding “Luscious” in that Lip Crayon kit mean that my search for the perfect shade will finally be over?  Probably not.

 

I am a cosmetic junkie.  I can’t help it.  I’m an esthetician; it’s part of what I do.  I’ve got a fancy makeup case filled with all sorts of different types of makeup: foundations, eye shadows, concealers, false eyelashes, blushes, lipsticks, liners and glosses.  And each one of those little sweeties in my case has called out that promise to me at some point, “Use me!  Use me, and you will be beautiful!”